It is time for an extended weekend trip again. The plan is to ride from Phnom Penh to Kampong Thom today and meet up with Vothear and Sokhom, two friends of mine who are excellent guides for exploring the temples in Kampong Thom, Preah Vihear and Siem Reap.

The plan for tomorrow is to follow National Road 6 towards Siem Reap town for another 100 km or so, passing Stoung and Kouk Thlok Kraom on the way until we reach Dam Daek. From here, we follow the newly upgraded Road 66 to the north for about 30 km, until we reach Prasat Trapeang Noem, close to Beng Mealea (Boeng Mealea), an ancient temple. After visiting the temple we plan to proceed on what is a new road towards the northeast until via Svay Leu to Prasat Kor Ker (Kaoh Kerr, Chok Gargyar, Phnum Dai), another ancient temple, or rather, a complex of dozens of them. From here we continue on a more modest road and via an extensive detour through Trayang to Kulen (Koulen) and finally to Tbaeng Mean Chey (T’beng Meanchey), the provincial capital of Preah Vihear province, where we spend the night. The next day we return to Kampong Thom on Road 64 and from there I continue home to Phnom Penh.

02.10.2005

Unfortunately there will not be enough time to visit Preah Vihear temple (I, II) or Anlong Veng near the Dangkrek Mountains at the Thai border, two of my favorites in this part of the country.

There is not much to report from the ride on National Road 6 to Kampong Thom, it is one of the best in the country, at least along this stretch. The process of upgrading road 66 to Beng Mealea is obviously very close to completion and we enjoy a smooth ride on a very even dirt road after filling up the bikes in Dam Daek.

With that road, the ruins of Beng Mealea are very accessible even to big groups of tourists in buses from Siam Reap or Phnom Penh. However, I don’t see buses and during our visit only 2-3 foreigners and some local visitors. At some point we reach a ticket booth and pay a considerable amount to enter the complex. Also the ruins themselves have been made more accessible, with the construction of wooden bridges and stairs across the area. We go with one of the guides who provides us with more information.

This temple was built under Suryavarman II in the 12th century. The temple is at the centre of an ancient Angkorian road which connects Angkor Thom and Preah Khan. More than 10 bridges can still be found in the jungle along the way. I have come across one of them on a previous visit.

Vothear and the guard.

It is apparent that the much of the area and the interior of the few buildings still standing have been cleared to make it easy and comfortable for tourists to visit. It is also good to see in principle that guards have been employed to protect the site and prevent further looting, destruction and theft. I hope this is what they do. Besides, nothing indicates efforts to conserve functioning structures, leave alone reconstructing those that are collapsed.

For the most part, this place has been taken over by the forest, and there are stacks of stones from collapsed structures all over the place.

This is when we leave the temple compound, which is surrounded by a moat which measures 1200m by 900m.

The bridge over the moat is still intact, although it appears very worn. A crude wooden structure supports the Naga monument that marks the entrance to the temple compound.

From here we follow various simple but smooth dirt roads via Svay Leu to Koh Ker Temple.

There is a small group of people around when we reach the outer gate of Koh Ker temple, among them the district governor. We talk to them for some time and learn that we got lucky, today there are no personnel to collect entrance fee so we will get to see the place for free. Funny to be told this by the governor in charge of the district.

This is what the Lonely Planet writes about Koh Ker:

“Koh Ker, a former 10th-century capital of the Angkorian empire, is one of the most remote and inaccessible temple sites in Cambodia, long abandoned to the forests of northern Cambodia. Also known as Chok Gargyar, it served as the capital of Jayavarman IV who, having seized the throne from a rival, left Angkor and transferred his capital here, where it remained throughout this reign. His son and successor Harshavarman I moved the capital back to Angkor in 944.

There are a remarkable number of religious buildings in the Koh Ker region, considering the short space of time that it was the capital of the empire. There are more than 30 major structures and experts believe there may have been as many as 100 minor sacred buildings in the region. It was also a prolific period for gigantic sculpture and several of the most impressive pieces in the National Museum in Phnom Penh come from Koh Ker…”.

Well, the road is not too bad now, Koh Ker is fairly accessible and does not seem very remote. It still did when I came here a few years ago. Back then, the temple and indeed its inaccessibility left I lasting impression on me. On top, it was the first pyramid temple I saw in Cambodia and because back then I went here – with Sothear – straight from Kampong Thom town and much of the time through the jungle without any recognizable road. However, despite improved accessibility I don’t see any tourists, neither foreigners nor Khmers. Only a number of local people are around.

The actual pyramid is surrounded by at least two balustrades through which one follows a way through a number of smaller structures, most of them more or less intact.

The temple is actually higher than it appears in these pictures, and so are the wooden stairs that have been constructed for people to climb it. Yet climbing them is very rewarding as the top of this pyramid offers fantastic views of the surrounding area.

After some times we can see clouds accumulating and it starts raining in some places. Vothear tells me that it regularly rains at this time in the afternoon but that we will make it to Tbang Mean Chey without getting wet, because the rain is coming from the West and we stay ahead of it.

We climb down the temple and walk back to the motos. I see two armed man, not a totally uncommon sight in Cambodia yet I wonder who or what they are protecting against who around here.

From there we follow a narrow but new and perfectly even dirt road through the forest. This road provides access to a number of smaller temples around here. Some of them I have visited before. Others are ‘new’ as Vothear tells me, cleared of mines and made accessible through the road only in recent months. There are quite a number of temples in relative close proximity and we visit some of them before we head to Kulen in order to make it to Tbang Mean Chey before dark.

From here the condition of the roads varies greatly, but it is easily doable for motorbikes all along the way.

I was here before, and back then the road is very bad in some places.

This is around Phnom Kulen, a place that I would like to explore on another trip.

This is where we fill up the tanks and meet some locals.

It starts getting dark when we leave this place, which forces us to slow down. We are both tired when we reach Tbaeng Mean Chey. We check rooms in three accommodations and opt for the Prum Tep guesthouse, where we have a break and shower before we go to have tasty diner in a simple restaurant, after which we go to bed early.

There is dense fog all over the place when I wake up in the morning. The plan for today is to ride all the way back to Phnom Penh via Kampong Thom. I hope to see one or the other temple along the road, and that it will not be raining too much.

There are plenty of places that serve breakfast and we sit down to eat.

An old monk is begging for food.

After breakfast Vothear takes me to the place from where it is possible now to travel to Stung Treng. This is where you need to cross the river.

After a few minutes we leave Tbaeng Mean Chey on Road 64 to Kampong Thom. This road has very recently been upgraded. I have never traveled it before but right now it is a nice and safe ride, little traffic, few potholes, and more importantly, beautiful landscape all along the way.

This is when it is becoming obvious that it is raining just a few hundred meters in front of us.

We make it to this temple and find cover inside.

It does not seem as if the rain will stop anytime soon.

This is inside the temple.

After about one hour the rains starts getting weaker and we leave. Over there are some signs warning of land mines, so I assume this area has been demined only recently.

This town is called Phnom Dek and unfortunately is not in the map. It is about 60 km north of Kampong Thom. It was from here that we went through the jungle to Prasat Bakan last time I came here. This for is you face when coming from the south to north. Follow the road to your left to get to Tbaeng Mean Chey. Follow the road to the right and you get to Stung Treng.

From here we continue along road 64 towards Kampong Thom. The landscape along the way is scenic and the road has recently been upgraded.

It starts raining again but not for very long.

Then we reach the National Road 6 and Kampong Thom shortly after. We have lunch at a roadside restaurant. Later I say good bye to Vothear and head to Phnom Penh.

Only very few days are left before Water Festival. I come across a number of boat races and other events involving boats along the way.

Today the traffic is quite distinct from other days in the following way. The entire population including myself seems on the way to Phnom Penh, to attend the water festival, while virtually nobody is traveling the opposite direction. The traffic to Phnom Penh has taken over both of the road’s lanes in many places.

This is one of the few occasions that I am traveling Cambodia for work rather than pleasure, together with my Cambodian colleagues around the great lake. It is the first time that I am making a trip all around the Tonle Sap Lake. I tune out work related issues here and focus instead on impressions from the road starting from Phnom Penh via Kampong Thom to Siem Reap, Battambang and back to Phnom Penh via Kampong Chnang.

18.09.2005

This is when we cross the Japanese Bridge in Phnom Penh. It is obviously rainy season and most of the land is submerged in water. All along this trip it is not obvious where the river ends and the flooded land starts.

One of the brick production sides just outside Phnom Penh.

On the busy road from Phnom Penh towards Kampong Cham.

Girls are selling lotus seeds as snacks at the roadside.

There are some really nasty potholes in the otherwise superb road to Kampong Cham, shortly before you Skuon. Truck and car drivers claim the entire width of the road to avoid the potholes.

From left to right: Kidan, Dara, Phal, I and a random Cambodian man on a moto.

We have a break in a restaurant at a lake a few kilometers west of Kampong Thom town.

Some Cambodian tourists are going for a swim and have an excellent time.

We are driving behind a luxury Lexus SUV when we see an infant water buffalo starting to cross the road. A big truck is coming our way on the other side of the road and it is becoming obvious that either this truck will hit the buffalo and send it our way or the buffalo will avoid the truck by getting back on our part of the road. Yet the driver in front of us does not reduce his speed. The buffalo indeed turns around and is right in the middle of the road when the SUV hits it at fairly high speed, catapulting it dozens of meters. We can partly see how the infant buffalo is rolling over a number of times in front of the SUV. Surprisingly, it gets back on its feed next to the road and walks to its buffalo mother.

These are the fellows in the Lexus, inspecting their broken headlight.

We come across this bridge somewhere between Kampong Thom and Siem Reap. It is an ancient bridge without any obvious modern additions yet part of the National Road from Cambodia’s modern to its ancient capital and the nation’s greatest attraction Angkor Wat. Presumably hundreds of buses and trucks pass this bridge everyday, and the river water forcefully pushes through its gates every rainy season. It appears that a new bridge is being build a few hundred meters from here.

We come across many fields submerged in water and houses accessible only by boat.

In a market not so far from Siem Reap.

We reach Siem Reap town and briefly visit the gates of Angkor Wat.

As usual there are many people picnicking in the area around the main entrance.

On one of the following days we visit the provincial department of culture and get a chance to witness Apsara dancers practicing.

We visit a small temple in town, opposite the Royal Residence, before we head to Battambang. These are some sort of bats which live on a couple of trees around this place. These bats are rather big.

Along the way from Siem Reap to Battambang.

Only a few kilometers outside Siem Reap town the previously paved road turns into a dirt road with numerous, partly water-filled, potholes. This is remarkable since this is a national road connecting major centers of the country.

This town is famous for its stone carving. Unfortunately I have forgotten its name.

These men are working on two extraordinarily large stone lions. We hear these lions have been ordered by the governor of the province, presumably for a major bridge.

Then we reach a place with an enormous accumulation of big vehicles right on the road. It appears impassable from far.

A large truck got stuck in the middle of the road and heavy machinery was brought in to free it.

Another truck got stuck a few kilometers away.

Later we reach a town a few kilometers before Battambang. I forgot its name. It has a monument that houses what seems to be an ancient lingam (phallic object as a symbol of Shiva) of considerable proportions.

The place is also popular for the variety of foods served in local food stalls.

This is a major beetle, fried. I prefer it a number smaller and have some fried crickets.

Later we reach Battambang and visit one of the ancient temples close to town. I believe it is Ek Phnom.

Later we hit the road again, pass through Pursat, have diner in Kampong Chnang and finally arrive back in Phnom Penh.

The plan for today is to travel back to Phnom Penh, which is about 310 km from here on national road via Kampong Thom. I get up at eight, have a shower and leave the guesthouse. I walk along the river for a bit and pass the market before I find a charming place at the river for breakfast.

In many ways Siem Reap is different from the rest of the country. Everybody appears to be busy, there are many tourists, most people understand English, and the city appears to be more Western and more affluent then any other place in the country. Siem Reap has a lot of appeal for Cambodians in many provinces, as it holds the promise of rapid economic and social development and immense individual opportunities that are not easily available elsewhere. There are countless luxury hotels, restaurants and bars, internet places and souvenir shops. As well as hospitals and schools. Other than Phnom Penh this is the only other truly urban place I know of in Cambodia.

This is in the morning at the market.

I spend about one hour with breakfast. Countless tourists pass by, most of them Westerners, many backpackers and young and not so young couples and even families. Later I walk a bit through this part of the town and back to the guesthouse. At about 10:30 I get ready and leave.

This is on the way.

Although much of the road to Kampong Thom is paved it does not allow for higher speed. There are construction sides all over the place, mostly small bridges and an awkward and bumpy way around it. There are at least two dozens of them.

This is one out of so many construction sides close to Siem Reap.

After more than three hours I am somewhat disappointed that I still did not reach Kampong Thom. I have a short break at this stall and get some bananas and water.

The women working here tell me Kampong Thom is just about 20 km from here. When I reach it I look out whether I can find Vothear and Sokhom. And in fact after only about two minutes I find Sokhom. I am glad to see him again and we go to a food place to hang out together. We call Vothear as well and then have food together, reflecting on the past days. I particularly enjoy talking to Sokhom, who is just 38 years old but close to be a wise man. He knows a lot and speaks excellent English. So we talk a lot about Cambodian history and contemporary politics. It is getting later and later and I still have to go back all the way to Phnom Penh.

From right to left: Vothea, Sokhom, me.

It is only by about 3:30 pm when I leave those guys, after many kind words. I have been riding this road for several times right now and it does not hold much surprises. Yet it remains challenging to deal with all the traffic and dust. At this point I feel somewhat tired from riding dirt bike and hurry to get this done and arrive at home safely.

Shortly before I arrive in Skun it is getting dark. I still have about 90 km to go. For some time I do not have the courage to turn my headlines on, since I know this is blinding the traffic on the other side of the road. This is not a nice thing to do, particularly on this busy road. However, when I want to give it a try I find that the headlights don’t work anymore. I switch on and off but it remains dark. I am annoyed by my self because again I did not manage to avoid riding at night. Without the headlight there is obviously additional risk. I can hardly overtake any vehicle. After all, cars coming at me cannot see me without light. Moreover, as long as I ride behind somebody with a headlight I have at least an idea of how the road looks like. However, after I overtake somebody and without another car in front of my I simply cannot see anything. In addition the traffic on the other lane is blinding me badly.

It takes me another 90 minutes to reach Phnom Penh in the dark. I really feel uncomfortable riding without headlight and all I do is keeping behind cars with reasonable speed and driving behavior and strong headlights.

When I arrive in Phnom Penh it is too late to bring the bike back to lucky! lucky! So I ride directly to my place, keep the bike on the parking spot of the insurance company close by and am glad to arrive at home safely.

Next day I get up at seven and go to the restaurant again to have breakfast. The plan is to spend some hours around Anlong Veng, to visit the relevant Khmer Rouge places. In the afternoon I want to leave Anlong Veng and ride to Siem Reap provincial capital, which is about 200 km from here.

After breakfast I kick of with the owner of the restaurant. We go with my bike. By now I don’t mind taking people on my bike. Everybody does. First we visit the local tourism office. The door is open but nobody is here. We find a name card and I call the guy. I learn that he is in the mountains right now, taking pictures for the provincial department of tourism’s homepage. He suggests we ride up the mountain and meet him there.

And this is what we do. Maybe for about 10 km we follow the main road to the north, which is broad and easy to ride. This changes when we reach the bottom of the mountain. Some distances are pretty steep. Others are covered with rocks or sand. However, it is not too steep and I even enjoy the rough road.

On the way we pass the statues of some soldiers, carved out of a single rock by Khmer Rouge members. Government soldiers have decapitated those statues.

After another 20 minutes we reach the top of the mountain range, which marks the border to Thailand. There is an accumulation of stalls which serves as local market. We park the bike and follow a guy from the tourist police about hundred meters, before we reach the place where Pol Pot was cremated and buried. Those spots would be difficult to find if there where not signs telling the visitor what he sees. Apparently not much attention is paid to those sites and they are covered with rubbish.

The sign to the right says this is the place where Pol Pot was cremated. Under the roof in the background is his grave. This is how it ends.

By accident, we meet the French guys who I was talking to yesterday before they left. They actually found a guesthouse up here and told me about the beautiful view they have had from their balcony. And we meet Un Khemara, who works in the local tourist office and is the guy I was talking to on the phone. We arrange to meet later in town to visit Ta Mok’s house close to the town.

In order to visit Pol Pots residence in the mountains we have still about 15 km to go. We pass the market and continue on a narrow road, which however is an easy ride. We ride mostly through forest. Sometimes we come across people, mostly in uniforms. Other than that the places we pass are not without beauty. Sometimes we see small lakes.

We pass a guard and pay some money for the priviledge of visiting Pol Pots house. After a few minutes we reach the remains of a concrete structure. There is a basement from concrete, which looks like it served as a bunker. Unfortunately my guide does not seem to know much more about the place than I do. There is nobody and nothing here to educate us about the historical significance of the place. We come across some sort of basin but do not know whether it served as swimming pool or for irrigation. We assume the surroundings are mined and leave the place after few minutes. I do not feel like I want to visit more places like that without understanding what I see. So we ride all the way back, passing the market and the statues and speeding a bit on the rest of the road back to Anlong Veng.

I presume those are the remains of Pol Pot’s last residence.

The place is not without beauty.

This looks like some sort of swimming pool. We don’t manage to find out what its purpose is or was.

I bring the restaurant owner to his restaurant and tell him I will be back for lunch after one hour or so. Than I ride back to the tourist office, but Un Khemara is not here again. Instead I talk to his colleague. I call Khemara again and learn he is at Ta Mok’s residence, which is just around the corner. Un Khemara picks me up at the office and we ride to the place. This is located at an artificial lake. This lake caused those trees to die and shaped the bizarre sight of the surroundings.

This house was set up first by Ta Mok and he lived in it for some time. The radio for leading the battle with government forces was close by. Un Khemara is about 30 years old and claims he was adopted by Ta Mok when he was a child. He also goes by the name So Phorn but I do not know why it is that he has so many names. Ta Mok had three daughters but no boys and took care of him.

Later a more solid house with a concrete structure was constructed. We enter and find the walls of the basement covered with paintings of Angkor Wat and Preah Vihear Temple. This is where meetings of the highest ranking Khmer Rouge took place.

Painting of Angkor Wat.

Painting of Preah Vihear.

This is the view from the window, at the artificial lake next to the house.

To the left, straight behind the buffalo is what remains from one of Pol Pot’s residences. Actually there was a house but it burnt down and only the toilet is still here.

We climb up to the second floor. The walls here are painted again, with a waterfall scene, a map of Cambodia and temples again.

This is Ta Mok’s bedroom.

We spend some time talking. Un Khemara tells me on various occasions about the dam which is the cause of the artificial lake outside. Ta Mok wanted to create this lake to provide water for humans and animals and for irrigation. However, Pol Pot was opposed to the idea.

Furthermore I am told the Thai government provided support in exchange for timber and ancient remains from the temples. At some point supposedly the Thai government demanded Prey Vihear in exchange for such services, but Ta Mok rejected this idea.

Later we go the basement, where we find Ta Mok’s bathroom. There are actually bunker under two of those buildings, which were used when the houses came under fire.

This is Un Khemara in Ta Mok’s bathroom.

After some time we leave. Something at the stand of my bike is broken, but it is a minor problem and I bring the bike to one of the local mechanics. Un Khemara insists that we ride to his house first so that he can give me his name card. He serves as teacher, too and what I find is a small school with this tiny classroom and many students.

After some time we ride back to the restaurant to have late lunch. Afterwards we hang out and talk, which is interesting.

I learn that the owner moved actually only recently to Anlong Veng and lived in Kampong Cham before. It is getting later and later. Finally I say bye, pick up my bike at the mechanic and ride back to the guesthouse. I pack my stuff and attached it to the bike. Then I head to Siem Reap.

After some kilometers I enter dense jungle. The road is alright but not very even. After some time the potholes get deeper and deeper. However, the fine sand makes that it is a smooth ride. It is at least three hours from here to Siem Reap and I hurry, because I don’t want to ride at night.

I rarely come across people or vehicles. Paul had warned me earlier that the roads in Siem Reap are ok but the bridges are in a bad shape. So whenever I see a bridge I reduce the speed significantly. Some bridges are in fact in bad shape and this one is a good example, although certainly not the worst one. In many cases there is an alternative way through the jungle for cars.

Bridges around here are in a bad shape.

Later on there is not much forest anymore, and trees are only thinly spread. Those are the first trucks I see on this road.

After maybe about two hours I reach Banteay Srei temple. Unfortunately I would be allowed to enter only with the Angkor Wat ticket for $20 a day. So I order food at one of the numerous empty stalls along the road. Then I go to take at least a picture of the gate.

This is the gate of Banteay Srei Temple.

This is inside.

I enjoy my food very much. I learn that it is only about 30 km from here to Siem Reap. When I kick off again it starts getting dark. However, the road is paved nicely from here. I have not seen a paved road for a long time. Moreover, there is not too much travel. So I speed up the bike and enjoy it.

Those 30 km are longer than I have thought. I expect to reach the center of the city every few minutes. However, I keep going. Only slowly the road is getting busier. And finally, when it is dark, I find myself in the dense traffic of Siem Reap city. This town seems to be much busier now compared to the rainy season, when I came here last time. I head to the popular guesthouse again, where I spend the night on my last trip here.

I manage to get a room and have a shower. Later I get a moto and ride to the local Seeing Hands massage place. Although I have gotten this massage many times I enjoy it particularly after I rode the bike for many hours. After the massage I go to the local happy herbs pizza restaurant to have diner. I talk to a couple for some time, he from California, she from Malaysia, living together in Hong Kong and traveling Asia. She works for a Swiss Investment bank and he for the Times magazine. This makes for an interesting conversation. Later I leave to the guesthouse and go to bed.

We get up at about 7 am and following some breakfast we head of. Vothear is convinced we can make it all the way to Choam Khsant but I remain skeptical. As soon as we leave Khvav to the north the dirt road turns into oxcart trails again.

We continue riding those trails. First we pass sandy stretches through open landscape. Later we ride through dense forest forcing us to duck from the branches of trees and follow the tight turns of the trail. We do not think of having breaks, as we want to catch up with the initial schedule.

It is getting somewhat chilly at night. When I look out of my window in the morning I see a number of children trying to get warm at this fire.

After about two hours riding I realize that my rear tyre is flat. This is not even half the way to Sraryang Village (Moreal is what the map says, but people on the ground do not know this name), which is about 68 km from Khvav and not so far from the temples of Prasat Kaoh Ker.

Luckily we have tools with us. So we open the tyre. We find a puncture in the tube caused by a nail in the tyre. More seriously, the tube is broken directly at the valve and I doubt we can fix it. And the next location where a tube might be available is Anlong Veng, which I intended to see only three days from today.

Vothear is still confident he can fix it. So what he does is he takes the valve out entirely and fixes the hole. Then he attaches the valve in another place. It is hard for me to imagine this will hold. And even if it does for some time it is unlikely to survive the next three days until I have the chance to purchase a new tyre.

The entire exercise takes us about one hour. Two Khmer guys pass on a moto and stop to find out what we are doing. They join for some time and help to fix the tyre. One of them carries glasses, which I did not see in the countryside before and which give him a somewhat intellectual appearance.

However, when we inflate the tyre it seems to be capable of surviving the pressure. I feel relieved a lot and we continue the ride through tough terrain. I try to treat the bike carefully, still concerned the tyre will break again. However, it does not.

The ‘road’ does not get any better.

We reach Sraryang Village only after another two hours and my tube breaks again only shortly before we reach it. Instead of attempting to fix it here we ride the last few kilometers to the village to have it fixed properly.

We reach the village and go to the mechanic. As usual he is confident he will fix it. We spend some time talking to him and later sit down in a food place at the roadside, to have some refreshments and observe life on the street. We talk to a number of people and later have food. The bike is not yet ready and we decide to go with Vothear’s bike the about 20 km to the Kaoh Ker temples.

So we get on Vothear’s bike and continue. Predominantly we ride on tough road covered with deep sand. I am amazed how easily Vothear manages to ride this small and weak bike through the sand without loosing control or much speed. And I feel good about not having to ride my bike, which turns out to be more fragile than I expected. Not so long ago I was concerned the bike would break me. However, I feel confident about riding dirt bikes by now and my major concern is that I might break the bike.

Those 20 km take us almost one hour. Then we arrive at the gate of Kaoh Ker’s main temple, Prasat Thom (Prasat Kompeng). There are more than 50 smaller sacred buildings in the surrounding. We enter and walk through the various towers and temples. Much of the structures are not intact anymore. Yet high towers are still standing and the ruins clearly give an idea of how this was supposed to look like.

“Koh Ker, a former 10th century capital of the Angkorian Empire, is one of the most remote and inaccessible temple sites in Cambodia, long abandoned to the forests of northern Cambodia.” This is how the current Lonely Planet introduces this destination, and goes on: “Koh Ker is one of the least-studied temple areas from the Angkorian period. Louis Delaporte visited in 1880 during his extensive investigations into Angkorian temples. It was surveyed in 1921 by the great Henri Parmentier for an article in the Bulletin de l”Ecole D’Extreme Orient, but no restoration work was ever undertaken here. Archaeological surveys were carried out by Cambodian teams in the 1950s and 1960s, but all records vanished during the destruction of the 1970s, helping to preserve this complex as something of an enigma”.

The later is in fact the impression those ruins convey. After we pass the gates we step out of the forest and the view opens up and we see the impressive 40 meter high temple pyramid. There is nothing around here as high as this temple. We walk over and start climbing up the steep stairs of this fragile ladder. This is an exhausting task in the sun of midday and I am happy to find a fresh breeze when I reach the summit.

From up here the view is open and through the clear air we can oversee the flat landscape. Only the mountains at the very horizon are higher than this temple. This mountain range marks the border to Thailand.

We have a smoke and hang out. We did not see a single tourist so far. The only indication of human settlement seems to be a small village some hundred meters to the north and the smoke of some spots where the grass is burning at the horizon.

Over there are a village and some rice field.

This is the direction towards the entrance gates.

After some time a group of children emerges from the forest and starts climbing up the pyramid. It takes them some time until they arrive at the summit. We hang out for some time, silently appreciating the fascination and history of this sight.

After maybe one hour we climb down again and walk around the temple. I learn the surroundings have been cleared from vegetation only some weeks ago by a government program. We walk back through the gates and to the moto and continue.

There are a number of smaller buildings around and we visit a number of temples which look rather similar to me. Inside each there is a linga (phallus symbol devoted to Shiva), mostly buried in the ground. We stop at two of those temples and than continue the trip to the next spot.

Small temple

Linga

We passed this temple when we came here and at this time locals where working hard to clear this structure from vegetation. After I saw a good number of temples today I do not have much appreciation left for this one, although I think it is cute.

We continue and at a junction turn and follow a road which’s’ sides are marked with red signs signaling that the surroundings are mined. However, the road has been cleared recently.

We reach the temples and I learn they are cleared as well. There are about five or six smaller temples which are still standing. We walk around for some time. Multiple rock plates covering the ground inside the temples are opened or broken by looters with heavy tools.

Scenery somewhere between the village and the temples.

It is already afternoon when we ride back to the village. When we arrive my bike is not ready. But the mechanics say they will manage to fix it. So we have some refreshment. Those guys really fix the tube again and we continue our trip.

We intend to travel to Choam Khsant via Kulen. From Kulen there are already roads marked in my map and I assume it is possible to travel those significant distances today given that we can ride faster.

This is before we reach Kulen. Bridges on this stretch are in poor conditions and the road is rather sandy.

To Kulen the road is in fact not too bad. In Kulen we reach a road which looks decent and find petrol to fill up the bikes.

This is in Kulen.

We continue traveling on this road but soon it turns into something that looks like it was cluster bombed recently. I learn this road has been constructed just one year ago which really is hard to imagine. There are deep wholes in the ground and sometimes the difference to the level of the initial road is more than one meter. Riding this road involves constant ups and downs and permanent choices which way to go. However, this sand offers better grip than it looks like and we manage to travel with significant speed. Sometimes we find smoother stretches where we can speed up but generally this road is in a very bad shape. Moreover, it is getting dark and I am riding behind Vothear’s bike, which produces a lot of dust and makes it hard for me to recognize what remains of the road.

Rarely do we come across vehicles and if so it is mostly military trucks and police on big bikes and with automatic weapons. After some time it is dark. At some point we turn and continue on an excellent dirt road, which really looks like recently constructed. Nothing in the map suggests this road exists.

It is still a long way to go and we travel with relatively high speed in the dark. We pass a number of modern iron bridges before we finally reach the guesthouse in Choam Khsant.

We see two dirt bikes in front. After we get rooms we walk to the main table, where we meet the other travelers. We get to know Paul Hay as well as Gerry and Paul’s brother ‘Mr. Slim’. I actually have heard a lot about Paul Hay before and was in contact with him. I found recommendations and his contact in Andy Brouwers Cambodia Forum and contacted him prior to traveling to Cambodia. I had a number of email exchanges with Paul and his wife Sheila. However, after I learned about the prices I felt it might be worth it but I certainly cannot afford it. And I am introduced to Gerry, who is Australian and here to take pictures of temples which are not yet published.

From left to right: Vothear, Gerry, Paul, and Mr. Slim

We order food and start talking about all sorts of issues. Mr. Slim tells me I have problems with my exhaust pipe. I expect something inside the sophisticated machinery which I would not be able to determine. It does not surprise me, though. However, the screw which attaches the exhaust to the frame is simply broken and the pipe is hanging down. This does not seem to be a major problem.

Later Gerry disappears with Mr. Slim and one of the prostitutes. Later we learn more about the threesome experience they just had. For some time I was hoping that we could reach Preah Vihear by Christmas Eve, which is today. However, I would not have expected hanging out in a brothel like guesthouse having this sort of conversation at night. I talk to Gerry and learn a lot about the temples, the impossibility to ‘discover’ temples and the difference between discovering and publishing temples. Gerry is freelance photographer. He has booked Paul and his brother for a number of days and they travel through the north to take pictures of temples which are not yet well known. Interestingly, Gerry is in touch with Andy Brouwer whose Cambodia Forum I visit regularly. And he has met Nick Ray, who is the author of the Lonely Planet on Cambodia. Gerry travels on the back of Paul’s bike, while his 35 km of cameras and equipment are on Mr. Slim’s bike. Later I spend a lot of time talking with Paul. This is very interesting and I learn a lot about Cambodia, the temples and dirt bikes.

It is late when we decide to go to bed.

It is at about 4 am when cocks start their noisy business. The village is getting busy when it is still dark. We get up at about 7 am and have breakfast, fish and rice, which is tasty.

Later we head out to see another temple of the Prasat Bakan complex, Prasat Domrei (temple of the elephants). Vanna and his friend give us company and the four of us ride on two motos. Vanna is traveling with Vothear and it is actually the first time I am not alone on my moto. I felt I do not want to risk other people’s health or live. However, it turns out not to be too difficult, although the road is pretty rough and sandy. After about 20 minutes we arrive at the temple, which is located at a beautiful lake. This is the first pyramid shaped temple I see.

Children in the morning.

View from the house at the road.

This is one of the gates, covered with nicely carved apsara figures.

Carved stones are buried in the ground, too.

There was a shrine on top of this temple, guarded by four nicely carved stone elephants. Only two of those elephants remain here. Another one is in the National Museum in Phnom Penh and still another one in the Musee Guimet in Paris.

The lake in the background is said to be home to a number of crocodiles.

Later we travel back to the village, pack our stuff, fill up the tanks and leave, heading to Khvav village. This is about 45 km tough terrain. I learn that we are traveling partly on the ancient road which used to connect Sambor Prei Kuk in Kampong Thom and Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Nothing in my map suggests that there is a road or anything to travel on. And in fact what it is is another ox cart trail. There are stretches of sand and of solid soil. Sometimes we pass fields, at times even travel on them because there is nothing else.

Mostly we pass through landscape dominated by high, resistant grass and small numbers of trees. Everything is pretty dry and sometimes the grass is burning. Sometimes there are bigger groups of trees or bamboo. The way is sometimes covered with leaves or grass, providing some traction for the tires but no certainty whether there is sand, rocks or the deep, narrow print of the oxcart underneath.

Sometimes the roots of trees put obstacles in the way, more so for Vothear’s moto than for me. A number of times he has to lift the moto or gets stuck. On one occasion he hits a rock with the brake pedal, so that it bents down and backwards. We do not manage to push it back, and now it is more difficult to ride this bike. Particularly as the front brake does not work either. However, Vothear is relaxed about it and we continue.

Vothear’s brake pedal is bend down and backwards.

We come across some people who are cutting bamboo.

We talk to them and they tell us they have seen many parts of the ancient ‘highway’ to Angkor in the jungle. We continue the journey, but not for long. Vothear’s rear tyre is flat and we stop to fix it. Vothea seems to have a lot of routine in doing that. After maybe 40 min. we continue. The road is not getting any better.

Initially we wanted to spend the night close to Kaoh Ker, in Sraryang Village, about 68 km north of Khvav. Traveling to Kaoh Ker makes for a challenging day trip and involves many hours of riding through difficult terrain. Given this plan the state of our bikes is frustrating. Vothear does not really have a brake anymore. In addition, he hits everything higher than few cm on the right of his moto. I fixed my headlight module transitionally with a rubber band, which makes it almost useless in the dark. And I am concerned the hydraulic tubes of my brake or the eclectics might suffer.

While we continue on rough terrain Vothear’s brake keeps hitting rocks and roots. I think he is taking quite some risk, but he ensures me we should continue like this. No question, it is much easier for me to ride this bike, and those obstacles mostly are insignificant to the suspension of my moto. Still later we are traveling in denser forest, and occasionally branches of trees hit our helmets.

After we have been traveling for about three hours we have a break again. I learn we are standing on a small bridge, part of what remains from the ancient highway to Angkor. This is in the middle of the jungle and we did not come across people for hours.

Vothear mentions his bike has many problems. This is very true. Not only has the brake moved about 120 degree towards the back tire and is almost touching the ground. In addition, the pedals to the left have taken serious blows and are deformed. Yet Vothear insists we continue.

After some time the road is getting easier and we can travel faster. Still later we reach another village. It takes us some time to find the way through the confusing system of very bad ‘roads’.

After another 30 min. we reach Khvav. This is a more significant village and I am surprised that a new dirt road passes through it. We learn that the mechanic has left the village to join a wedding. It seems we are not so lucky today.

This is in the village.

We have food and chat with the charming lady who prepared it. We discuss our situation and agree on the following. We better not try to travel to Kaoh Ker like this. Instead of traveling north from here, we travel south on this amazing new dirt road all the way to Kampong Kdei, which is a town on National Road 6. We attempt to fix both bikes there properly and travel back here to Khvav to spend the night. Tomorrow we continue to Kaoh Ker. Vothear is confident we can make it all the way to Preah Vihear Temple, or at least Choam Khsant, both at the Thai Border, roughly 120 km from here.

This is in Khvav.

This is where we have food.

So we follow this excellent road south. Initially it is a bit broken but later it is very alright.

I have the chance to take pictures once in a while, because I can easily catch up with Vothear’s moto. Many stretches along the toad are settled and we see countless rice fields. And a number of vehicles on the road. I am a bit disappointed about a road as busy and comfortable as this one next to where I am doing my adventure trip.

After maybe 90 minutes we reach Kampong Kdei and find the mechanic directly at the main road. There is a lot of traffic, including huge trucks carrying soil for construction of road elsewhere. The mechanic is confident he can solve our problems. Luckily, he has new spare parts for those pedals which are broken on Vothear’s bike.

This is how Vothear’s brake pedal looks by now.

This is Kampong Kdei, with National Road 6 running right through it.

We hang out for some time. Later I walk through the town. I passed this town twice in the rainy season on my way to Siem Reap and back to Phnom Penh. However, there is not much to see. Still later I go to a food place and have coffee and study my guide books. Later Vothea comes over; we have discussion with some locals and food. After two hours our bikes are far from being ready. We ride over to the famous ancient bridge about 500 m from here.

Two women are polishing those wooden pillars, which are used for decoration.

This is how those pillars look like when they are finished.

I am surprised this bridge not only is still able to carry its own weight, but the massive traffic between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, too, including those heavy trucks.

We wait about 20 min. to get a pictures of one of those trucks but apparently it is too late and no trucks are coming anymore. We ride back but the repair of our bikes is still going on.

We wait another hour before the headlights of my bike are properly attached to the frame again. It is almost dark when we start the trip back to Khvav. After few minutes we are riding in the dark. I realize that the headlights are welded firmly to the frame, yet they point upwards and significantly to the right. I can recognize the trees along the road but not easily obstacles on it. Moreover, I am blinding people coming the opposite direction and feel bad about it.

Once in a while we come across people, walking along the road, traveling on bicycles, motos or oxcarts.

After about one hour we reach Khvav and find some sort of guesthouse. We hang out for some time in front of the house and talk to the owner. On the opposite side of the street is a noisy karaoke event going on.

I have been riding all day behind Vothear on dusty terrain and my clothes and myself are covered with dust. I am happy to have the opportunity to take an extended shower. Later we go to bed. Rooms are simple and clean and mosquito nets are provided.

The noise from the karaoke place continues for some time. In this regard those villages do not match my expectation. For some reasons I though villages in those remoter parts would be quite places at night.

This is Ta Keo, built by Jayavarman V (968-1001) but not finished. It was the first Angkorian monument built entirely of sandstone, including pieces of many tons. The central tower is almost 50m high. No one is certain why construction work stopped.

From this stage of the construction it is very visual that the architects first fit the raw pieces together and built the structure and then add the ornaments.

It is very difficult to climb those stairs as they are unbelievable steep.

Those windows are all along the gallery on the first floor. What might not be too much of a problem with modern technology has been a matter of highly sophisticated craftsmanship about 1000 years ago. All those pillars look exactly the same.

After we are done with this temple we go by moto to a place close to Ta Prohm to have lunch. There are a high number of small businesses catering to tourists, which seem to be rare these days. So the lunch business is very competitive. When we arrive about a dozen of women shout and wave at us, indicating that we should eat at their place. We have extensive lunch while a number of children keep trying to sell books, post cards, and souvenirs.

By the time we finish lunch it starts raining. There are hammocks in the back of most of the huts in which food is served and we decide to stay a bit longer and hang out in hammocks.

The rain is not strong but does not stop so we make it an hour. To get a nap is a good thing to happen to me right now since last night was a short one. And it feels good to be here close to the temples, listening to the rain and resting in a hammock.

Then we move to see Ta Prohm, which is said to be one of the most atmospheric ruins around here.

This is some sort of orchestra on the way. The Musicians do not play when we pass. So I wait since I want to know what it sounds like. They still do not start playing and I put some money into the tin. Now those fellows start playing enthusiastically and I sort of like the sound.

This is the gate.

This is the next gallery.

Inside is a number of Buddha, maintained by old people.

It really is the roots of those old trees what makes a significant part of the fascination of those ruins.

The walls are covered with fine carvings.

This fellow is a famous person among travelers in Cambodia as his picture is on the cover of the current Lonely Planet.

This complex is much bigger than it might appear on these pictures and we spend about two hours exploring it. Than we get on the moto again and go back to Angkor Wat.

This is the pool around the complex, with the outer gallery on the opposite side and the towers of the central sanctum in the background.

This is the gate through the outer gallery.

This is a famous statue of Vishnu, which is standing in the outer gallery. It took my some time to take this picture with the central sanctum in the background.

This is the gate again.

The walls of those galleries are very long and yet covered with fine carvings of apsaras (classical dancers).

This is a place where Khmer Rouge soldiers had fired guns at those carvings.

This is Angkor Wat.

Those pictures are taken from the library.

This is at the gate.

This is inside.

One of the towers.

This is taken from upstairs. In the background is the outer gallery, connected with the central sanctum via the wide road in the center. To the left and right of this road are the former libraries.

The place is in the middle of the jungle.

There are four basins up here. Like the one upfront. They used to be filled with water which was said to have special powers.

A number of statues standing in line along one of the galleries.

Incomprehensible amounts of walls are covered with those fine carvings.

At this point it is about 5 pm. The sun set is said to take place at about 6:30 pm. However, the sun has not been shining for the last few hours and it does not look like there will be anything like a sun set. At the same time we have spend the entire day walking and climbing through ruins and both of us feel tired. So we decide to leave.

Monks in front of what used to be the library.

Monks at the inner side of the outer gallery.

This is on the other side of the road, where security personal is persuading homeless kids to leave the compound, since it does not look good in the eyes of the few tourists.

In the outer gallery. In the background is a Shiva statue. Walls to the right are covered with carvings of apsara dancers the windows to the left are covered with still finer carvings and inscriptions.

This is outside the compound of the Angkor Wat temple.

It is holiday and the place in front of Angkor Wat is a popular place for picnic among locals.

Mr. Kim gives me a lift to the guest house where I have a shower and some rest.

Already yesterday I though it would be a great idea after one day on the moto and another day exploring the temples to find a good massage in town. So I ask Mr. Kim for a blind massage place. Those places can be found in several towns. People who are blind for various reasons get some training from a NGO in massage. This is to enable them to have a job and occupation even with this significant handicap. So going there serves a good purpose. Furthermore, most massage places in most cities are just brothels. Asking for blind massage is a good way of making sure that what is asked for really is just massage.

We find the place and both get us a one hour massage for just $3 each. We leave to have diner and then I decide to go to bed.

What follows is my report about just one day I spend in Siem Reap exploring the temples. I am sure there is plenty of information out there, since this is the tourist destination number one in Cambodia. So I do not try to give long explanations about history which would only expose my ignorance. What I think I can deliver is my personal and unscientific account and a number of pictures which reflect my personal encounter with the temples.

It is about 5 am when Mr. Kim knocks on my door. I wake up and realize that I did not hear my alarm clock. So I hurry to get ready in only about 10 minutes. We leave without any breakfast. The idea is to arrive at Angkor Wat early enough to experience the sun rise. This is what many tourists do. The way from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat is about 15 km long and we join what is a significant number of tourists on motos with obviously the same intentions.

By the time we reach inculcation and the outer gallery of Angkor Wat it is still entirely dark. There are a number people trying aggressively to sell all sorts of things, predominantly rolls and batteries for cameras, in addition to the standard blend of soft drinks and snacks.

While one of those sellers is approaching me to persuade me to buy his stuff two other men surprisingly ran in out direction, catch the guy and grab his back. So I do not have the chance to by something. Mr. Kim explains to me that those people are doing their business without the required permission. The other two guys are police men, likely to extract a bribe before they give back those goods.

We pass the men made pond around the temple via the huge bridge while it is still dark. There are a number of other people as well. We pass the outer gallery and at this point it is difficult to recognize details or assess the dimensions of the complex.

This is outside the inculculation, facing the gate through the outer gallery with the bridge to the left and the water to the right. It is still dark at this time and I took the picture with long exposure.

This is after we pass the outer gallery with Angkor Wat in the background. It is still dark and I set a long exposure.

A fair number of tourists are waiting with us.

It is getting increasingly clear that there won’t be any sun rise, since the sky is mostly covered with clouds.

So we get started again and follow the major road to the gate of the central sanctum.

Mr. Kim and me.

We decide not to visit Angkor Wat right now as it is still dark inside. Instead we want to visit a number of other sides and come back here in the early evening. We turn left to have some breakfast at a close by stand.

Those are modern style temples close to the place where we have breakfast. What we get is café with sweet milk and white bread with cheese. There is a Buddhist holiday those days but unfortunately I do not recall the name and did not understand the meaning. However, most pagodas are busy. This one is no exemption and we hear music in the background and see carefully dressed people.

After we have breakfast we go all the way back to the moto outside the Angkor Wat complex and continue our tour.

Bayon

Walls are covered with sophisticated carvings.

Much could be said about this temple and I leave it to more knowledgeable sources.

I hear there are about 200 of those big faces, with several types of expressions.

There are a number of statues and local people who take care of them.

This is a sign in one of the (fairly clean) toilets. However, this one is in important ways different from the ones I have seen at home.

Those towers are called Prasat Suor Prat and might have served as jails.

Terrace of Elephants

This is on the back side.

Phimeanakas: this part of Angkor Thom which was build about 1200 by Jayavarman VII. It is on the compound of the ancient Royal Palace.

This is the former Royal swimming pool.

Children are playing with this boat, on occasion sinking it.

This is when they sink it.

This temple is close by and called Baphuon and was built by Udayadityavarman II in1060. It is under reconstruction.

There is a bridge that is leading to this temple, with a pond to the left and another pond to the right. This bridge is carried by countless small pillars.

Again at the Terrace of Elephants.

Those guys in grey uniforms are in charge of security. They are all over the place. And they work for Sokimex, one of the best connected businesses in Cambodia. Supposedly Sokimex is controlled by Vietnam. They run every other gas station in the country and collect entrance fees at Angkor Wat. For this privilege they pay the government about $1 mill per year. However, this deal has come under intense criticism not least during the election campaign.

Those walls are covered with sophisticated carvings.

This is at the southern gate of the Great City. Some scenes for the Laura Craft movie where produced here.

The wall is about 8 m high and many kilometers long.

Then we arrive at those smaller temples.

Yet other temples just on the opposite side of the road.

This is the last weekend before I go back to Germany. I did not have much vacation so far and manage to get a day off on Monday. I always wanted to travel to Siem Reap and to see Angkor Wat but unfortunately I did not yet get the chance to go. So I thought better one day in Siem Reap than not at all.

I have planned to go to Siem Reap by moto for quite some time. And I have tried to find somebody to give me company. However, I did not find anybody who had both time and interest to go. After all, it is a distance of about 350 km one way.

So I decide to go on my own. The plan is to leave Saturday early in Phnom Penh in order to arrive in Siem Reap early enough to buy the ticket and see the sunset. The next day would be dedicated to visit the temples. And on Monday I would have to travel back early enough to go to work on Tuesday again.

Saturday I get of at about 8 am and go to riverside to have breakfast. This picture is taken from the restaurant at the Mekong River, which is in the background.

I have extensive breakfast. Then I take the moto dop to ‘Lucky! Lucky!’, my preferred moto rental service. The manager is not here today and I get to speak to his sister, which happens frequently. Usually he tries to give me the smaller bikes. However, she is very friendly and not as concerned about the bikes. Typically she is happy to give me whatever I ask for.

I came with the intention to get one of the lower (and cheaper) 250 ccm bikes. However, the lady tried to persuade me to take one of the bigger bikes. This is getting me into the area of the $8 bikes, which is still a fair price. Since I am choosing among the bigger bikes now I go for the biggest one available among them. After all, this is my last weekend in Cambodia.

The lady is still ok with giving me the bike. However, she informs me that it is $10 instead of $8 when the bike is driven outside Phnom Penh. I though this is still an ok price and I do not want to spend more time with negotiations. So I decide to take the bike and finalize the paper work. I bought some strong stripes the other day and take some time to fix my bag well to the moto. Then I leave to the north, to reach the road to Kompong Cham.

I have been traveling on this road before and thought this is one of the best roads I have been traveling on in Cambodia. I presume it is national road number seven, but are not exactly sure about the numbers.

As long as I am still close to Phnom Penh there is dense traffic which allows only for very low speed. Shortly after one crosses the Japanese bridge in the north of Phnom Penh it takes about 12 km until one reaches the first point where national police is monitoring the traffic. This usually means for the involved officers to collect bribes from bus and truck drivers. I have heard that tourists on big motos are easy targets for underpaid police men to extract some money. One of my guide books advises not to see the police in the first place, since it is too late after eye contact is established.

Since I am riding with a helmet with dark visor there is not much eye contact anyway. However, when I pass the spot two of the police men use their pipes, apparently to stop me. I am pretty sure that this was aimed at me but by that time I had almost passed them. So I just kept driving with the traffic without moving my head or reacting in any way to those signals. Only for a short time I am concerned they might be following me.

Going to Siem Reap it is important to leave this road at the traffic circle in Skun. This is about 50 km before one reaches Kompong Cham town. One has to turn left to get on national road six to Kompong Thom and Siem Reap.

Few km after I passed Skun I stop to have some food. I see this sort of restaurant, which does not look particularly charming.

I order some fried noodles and a soft drink. A Khmer guy comes over to sit on my table. We start a conversation and it turns out quickly that he had spent some time in Germany. Eastern Germany. He went to Rostock to study mechanical engineering. And he speaks fair German with this funny accent they have up there. This guy is working as an assistant to a German physician who is practicing here in town.

An animal transport arrives some time later. A good number of pigs are tight to a rack and to each other in two layers on this truck. This is a good number of pigs. Those pigs are tight well to the truck, so that they cannot move. But they make a lot of noise, indicating that they are not exactly comfortable.

It is a hot day around here and the pigs are getting a shower.

After some time, when the driver wants to leave again, the car get stuck. This does not come as surprise, since the truck is badly overloaded with all those pigs. People try reluctantly to free the car, but do not have much success.

However, I have still a long way to go and leave without waiting for the final result of those endeavors.

The road from here is not as plain as the road through Kompong Cham. After only 20 km from Skun one reaches the border of Kompong Thom province. Not only is the road not plain, but on a high number of relatively short stretches it is not paved and very bumpy. There are not as many cars on this road as there are on national road 7. Together this makes riding the motor bike an enjoyable affair. Whereas cars have to reduce the speed significantly to pass the bumpy distances with the moto one can travel with more steady and relatively high speed. And I know that I still have a long way of about 170 km to go.

I stop only few kilometers before I reach Kompong Thom. This is how the road looks like around here. This is what is called dust road and is comfortable in the current condition, when it is not too wet.

This is the moto, when it is still fairly clean.

I keep driving and pass Kompong Thom provincial capital. Shortly after passing the town one has to turn slightly left in order to stay on the road to Siem Reap. The road is getting better. It is mostly paved and pretty even, partly without any potholes. Moreover, there are only few vehicles on the road. So I can travel with fairly high speed.

Maybe about 30 km later it looks increasingly like it will start raining soon. When it starts raining I am getting wet a bit but manage to make it to this small restaurant like business at the road. People are very friendly and provide me with some plastic to cover my bag on the bike.

This is how the road looks like most of the time on this stretch.

This is how it looks like behind the shop at the road. I though this place is pretty cute.

Rain is getting stronger.

Only after I have spent about 45 minutes the rain starts getting weaker and finally stops entirely. I get on the bike again and keep driving. It is still very cloudy. The paved parts of the road are increasingly interrupted by unpaved and partly bumpy stretches.

This is what I see when I look down on me. The bike would have been the first one I see in Cambodia with a functioning tachometer.

More and more it looks like it is about to rain.

It starts raining after I pass one of the view towns. I am looking for a place where I can wait without getting wet. However, I cannot see something suitable. The rain is getting stronger and I decide to stop at one of those small huts, which provides a bit of cover from the rain. Given that there are quite strong winds and the fact that the roof is not exactly tight the hut does not prevent anything from getting wet.

I am lucky enough to have my complete rain gear with me. However, deep down in my bag. So it takes me some time to get on those pants and the jacket. After I made it I feel much better prepared to cope with the weather. But I decide to wait since the rain is very strong.

Although it keeps raining for about one hour, vehicles and people with animals keep passing this place.

The rain does not really stop but is getting somewhat weaker. It is still raining heavily when I decide to continue the trip. I am kind of concerned that it gets dark long before I reach Siem Reap, which is not a pleasing prospect. I do not know the area and I do not have time to spend the night somewhere else then in Siem Reap town.

The strong rain makes it difficult to recognize potholes or other obstacles on the road. So I cannot ride as fast anymore. Passing cars, predominantly trucks, splash big amounts of mud and dirty water all over the road. When those splashes hit my helmet it is difficult to see anything at all. Open the visor does not make it easier, since the stuff is flying straight into my face.

I presume that the road is most of the time not paved, since there is so much mud around. Even if parts of this road would be paved it would not make much of a difference given the thick layer of mud.

The rain is sometimes getting weaker or stronger but does not stop entirely. I continue driving without knowing how far it is from here to Phnom Penh. At some point I check the petrol and decide to get some fuel on the road. Even that turns out to be difficult since I cannot recognize those small shops along the street anymore through the thick layer of mud on my helmet. Finally I manage to get it.

It is getting dark while I am still riding on this road with relatively low speed. Only when it is almost entirely dark the road becomes better rapidly and the traffic increases. Shortly later I find myself in the dense traffic of Siem Reap provincial capital. This town turns out to be much more urban than I expected. I checked both of my guide books earlier and hat decided to go to the Popular Guesthouse, which is said to be cheap.

It took me some time to find the place. I kept getting contradicting advice in poor English and continued to drive around. Only after about half an hour I managed to find the guest house. This is in the court yard of the guest house together with the owner and one of the employees who is trying my helmet and glasses. At this point the moto is not clean anymore and neither am I.

Most of the rooms are occupied and what I get is a room with two beds for the price of a room with one bed which is $5. This is acceptable, given that prices in Siem Reap are generally higher than in Phnom Penh.

I feel very tired. So I decide to have a shower and some diner. I talk to the owner of the guesthouse in order to find a guide for tomorrow who is capable but not too expensive. He introduces me to Mr. Kim, who is 24 years old and supposedly studies ancient history of the temples. Mr. Kim appears with a book about the temples in his hand which makes me confident. I thought it would be a good idea to go on a ride through the town to get accommodated. What I get to see is a number of roads and markets which present a strong contrast to the rural areas I was passing on the way here. There are dozens of expensive hotels, restaurants, bars and a high proportion of tourists among those walking on the streets.

Mr. Kim turned out to be only moderately helpful, since he did not know too much about history and his English was fairly poor. However, at this point it would have been impolite to tell him I won’t need him tomorrow and I decide to explore the temples with him tomorrow.

In order to see Angkor Wat during the sun set we have to start at 5 am. This is quite early for me, particularly after this exhausting day. So at about 10 am we ride back to the hotel to get enough sleep.